Day 4: Kalmar Castle & Copenhagen
- The Day Distilled: Kalmar Castle’s plain outer walls conceal surprisingly beautiful rooms, while Copenhagen hides nothing – its color and energy are on display at every turn.
- Woman of the Day: In 1396—a time when none of the warring Scandinavian kingdoms allowed a woman to wear the crown—Danish princess Margrete used her connections and sharp negotiation skills to end hostilities (more or less) and form the Kalmar Union of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, and Greenland. She ruled until her death in 1412.
- Ship’s Log: Our hotel in Copenhagen, which looked out over the forest of masts in bustling Nyhavn (new harbor), used to be a guesthouse and chapel for sailors.
Pro Tip: Follow the guidebook's walks!This morning we meandered along the “Kalmar Back Streets Walk” described in the Rick Steves Scandinavia guidebook, which took us through the rough cobblestone streets and colorful cottages of old Kalmar, on the way to a peaceful garden cemetery and the Kalmar Castle drawbridge.
|
Kalmar Castle has startling interiorsAt the drawbridge, we were greeted by Amanda, a young docent who did a terrific job explaining the castle’s strategic and historical importance in the centuries-long rivalry between Sweden and Denmark.
It was a real surprise to discover graceful Renaissance interiors and day-glo bright ceilings hiding behind the massive 12th century rock walls! The dining hall was set with a typical meal of the period, complete with swans, peacocks, lobsters, and other dramatic dishes and decorations. My favorite part of the castle was the intricate wood inlay decoration on the walls. Amanda concluded our tour in the castle chapel, where she treated us to a lovely song. It was a sweet goodbye to Sweden—because next we were off and rolling, to visit Sweden’s ancient enemies, the Danes! |
Copenhagen has startling exteriors
After a long drive (with a brief stop at a beautiful Swedish lakeside park for a picnic lunch), we arrived in Copenhagen in late afternoon. We stashed our bags at the hotel and then joined Ylva for a walk along the colorful, bustling New Harbor (Nyhavn) and then down Copenhagen’s wide pedestrian thoroughfare, Strøget.
|
Story time... with an adult beverage
We turned into a large public square, where Ylva introduced us to the dapper Hans Christian Andersen, who was waiting for us by an outdoor café. The café staff bustled out with trays of aperitifs, which we enjoyed while Mr. Andersen welcomed us to his city, raised a glass to toast our arrival, and told us a story of a little mermaid (not the Disney version!).
|
Long days mean lots of lovely light
Then it was time for a group meal in a warm restaurant, a visit to the best ice cream store on the Strøget, and a slow stroll home in the beautiful fading light.
For more photos of Day 4, see the slideshow below. |
|